Peru Part Three - The Inca Trail

So here it is, the big one.

Machu Pichu has long been on my bucket list as I am sure it is for many others, but the idea of trekking the Inca Trail has always given me the fear. Could I do it? Would I be fit enough? Would I enjoy the hiking?

In the end I decided to just bite the bullet and hoped it would be the kind of amazing achievement I could look back one day and say 'Wow, I did that'. Fast forward a month and it is!!

As mentioned in a few earlier blog posts I settled on once again travelling with G Adventures and chose the Amazon to Andes tour as I felt it gave me an overall experience of Peru in a short space of time. The classic Inca Trail, is 27 miles of Inca-laid trails connecting haunting archaeological sites, breathtaking panoramic views, and heart-pounding mountain peaks. Access to this route is strictly controlled — only 500 permits per day are issued (including guides and porters) and only authorized companies can receive permits. I booked my trip quite far in advance last November to ensure I got my permit.

Setting off from Ollantaytambo on Wednesday 2nd July we arrived at the checkpoint early and here handed over our duffle bags to our purple vested porters and collected our walking poles. At the first checkpoint we were told to show our passport and inca permit and got our first Inca Trail passport stamp. I was actually really relishing the idea of having no phone signal, no wifi and just going really back to basics.

From here we crossed the bridge over the Urabamba River and set off for what would be a 6 hour - 11km trek with a steady incline towards the Wayllabamba campsite. The sun was shining, my group were all in good spirits and come lunchtime at our rest stop we were feeling good but hungry.

Upon arrival, there was a dining tent already set up, a cup of juice handed over and a bowl of water and soap to freshen up with. We were then served an amazing lunch of vegetable soup and trout with potatoes and veggies. The food was so tasty and filling and perfect fuel for the next few hours into base camp. We continued to hike as a group but over the next four days the 16 of us would separate into different groups based on our speeds.

Along the way we spotted a number of wildlife from friendly stray cats and dogs, to donkeys and hummingbirds.

As we arrived into Base Camp #1 we were applauded by the porters, and again given warm water to wash with. The views were great and there was also a nearby stream to go and wash in. Although the temperatures felt sub zero.

After arranging our tents, the group all sat around chatting and getting to know one and other before dinner. After filling our bellies, we opened up a pack of cards and passed the time by playing 'bullshit'. Nothing bonds people together like a good old card game.

Most people retreated back to their tents around 9pm ready for the early start the next day. I wrapped myself up in plenty of layers and pulled on my llama patterned bobble hat and fell straight to sleep.

On Day 2 we were woken up by the kind of sounds I can only describe as like something out of Jurrasic Park. It literally sounded like a T Rex was outside my tent, but no it was just a nearby Donkey making himself known.

Our adorable guide Chino popped his head in the tent and handed us a coca leaf tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with. Breakfast this morning was quinoa porridge and pancakes with a toffee animal motif drizzle (its the little touches that in my opinion make G Adventures so special).

This day was the one we all were dreading as we embarked on a 12km trek up to the infamous Dead Womans Pass. With an altitude of 4200m above sea level, the air up there can become really thin and the steps just seem to go on forever. Day 2 was incredibly hard but completely achievable if you take your time. There were times where I couldn't take more than 5 steps without stopping to catch my breath. But those resting moments did give me the chance to stop and look at the stunning scenery.

It takes roughly 6 hours to reach Dead Womans Pass and it was all uphill, however from there it takes another 2 hours to Base Camp #2 and those hours are all downhill, so be prepared for your knees to be knocking by the end!!

I have never experienced jelly legs like after reaching the end of Day 2, but that was all outweighed by the sheer relief we all felt when we arrived at Base Camp. I really felt that now I had beaten Day 2 I could take on whatever else the Inca Trail was going to throw at me.

Big recognition needs to go to my friend Sarah on Day 2 as despite being really sick, she battled on through the hardest day of the whole trek and made it to camp to a round of applause from us all. Big thanks also goes to my South African buddy Nilesh for carrying half a bottle of Johnny Walkers Scotch up the trail, as passing that baby around the dinner tent on Day 2 really took the edge off those aching muscles.

Base Camp #2 also offered my favourite campsite view and certainly took the edge off waking up at a ridiculous hour when you are greeted by a view like this.

On Day 3 the wake up call was 5am, and breakfast today was omelette and a big cup of hot chocolate. Todays trek was 16km and probably the prettiest days of all the trek with a mixture of dry hillside and lush jungle vegetation. Who knew moss could be so colourful?

Day 3 on the trek was a mixture of hiking up and down and our lunch stop was on top of mountain overlooking the back of Machu Pichu mountain. To all of our surprise our fantastic cooks managed to bake us a cake on top of our mountain. There is seriously nothing these guys can't do.

The journey down into WinayWayna camp was nothing but steep vertical steps but we did cross through the Intipata ruins which were some of my favourite, as the agricultural terraces are shaped around the curve of the valley.

Amazingly on the top of this mountainside there was the odd electricity pylon which meant that thanks to our guide Davids negotiation skills, we were able to cram into some random persons house  and watch the Brazil v Columbia game. Very Surreal.

Tonight we thanked and tipped our porters and had our final dinner on the Inca Trail before heading to our tents for a few hours sleep.

Day 4 (Machu Pichu Day) we were woken up at 3.15am and by 4am we were all trekking in the dark with our head torches on to arrive at the checkpoint. Waiting for the checkpoint to open we sat patiently playing cards under torch light below a sky full of stars. This trip has given me so many 'pinch me' moments and this was one of them as the sky was so beautiful.

From the checkpoint it takes roughly another hour to make it to Intipunku (Sun Gate) and the first real view of MP. 

We then stood and watched the sunrise come over the valley before powering down more steps to the stone platform that allows you to capture the picture postcard photo. Here I am, so happy to have made it.

By this point it was about 8am and we headed straight to the terrace bar at MP and cracked open the beers. Never has an ice cold beer tasted so good.

Onwards from here we were given a guided tour of Machu Pichu and learnt about the history and significance of the site. From religious temples to high priests quarters and agricultural pastures. It is no surprise why this place is a Wonder of the World as the place is incredible and I will treasure the day I spent there for the rest of my life.

Heading back to Aguas Calientes for lunch it was Pizzas, Pisco Sours and copious amounts of Sangria all around. We must have been the happiest bunch of people in the town and even had a little dance in the street.

The Inca Trail was my favourite part of Peru and one of the best travelling experiences of my life. I am so glad I didn't cheat and catch the train. Arriving at Machu Pichu through the Sun Gate after 4 days of trekking was the most rewarding feeling, and to get to do it with the best bunch of Ozzies, Brits, Norwegians and South Africans made it perfect. I would not change a single thing about any of it.

Thanks for reading and if this inspires anyone to visit Peru and hike to Machu Pichu either on the Inca Trail or one of the other many routes available, then enjoy and make the best memories. This place is a gem x

Peru Part Two - Cusco & Sacred Valley

Cusco was by far my favourite city in Peru and is nestled right in the heart of the Andes Mountains. This one is a bit of a bumper blog post, as there is so much to fit in.

We were warned we may start to feel the effects of the high altitude when we arrived (Cusco is 3400m above sea level) so we made sure to keep drinking lots of water to stay hydrated. There was also plenty of free Coca leaf tea on offer which also helps with the altitude. I was determined not to get sick on this trip.

After dropping off our luggage at the Prisma Hotel we walked through the Plaza de Armas to an amazing organic restaurant for our first group lunch. 

From here, we visited one of the local Peruvian markets where you could buy everything from local textiles, to fruit and veg or even a pigs head (if that takes your fancy).

In the evening we were given our Inca Trail de-brief and told to pack our duffle bag for the trek, only bringing the essentials and being mindful of the fact not to overload our porters. Butterflies started to kick in as they explained exactly what each day of the trek would involve. More on the Inca trail to come soon.

The next day we left the hotel early to take a short bus ride to a lookout point where you can get up close to a miniature version of Christ the Redeemer. The view from the lookout point of the red rooftops made for a stunning photo opportunity.

As I was on a G Adventures tour we were lucky enough to visit a sponsored Planeterra that is run by a local community of women weavers. Here we were given a demonstration of how they take the raw llama/alpaca wool and then bleach it using the root from a Tequila plant. They then dye using all natural substances such as berries and leaves. It was fascinating to see a process go back to basics, particularly as I work in an industry where we rely heavily on chemicals to do the job.

The planeterra also had small market stalls selling home made handicrafts which gave us the perfect opportunity to stock up on a nice warm hat, scarf and a pair of gloves ready for the Inca Trail. The women and children were all so friendly and helpful and it was nice to see that some of the money from my trip went towards providing a sustainable career for these families.

From here we drove to the town of Pisac in the Sacred Valley on the Urabamba River. The area is perhaps best known for its Incan ruins, known as Inca Písac which the Incas used to construct agricultural terraces on the steep hillside.

A further short drive from Pisac we arrived at our hotel for the night in the small town of Ollantaytambo. Now the people who cheat and catch the train to Machu Pichu will do so from here, however for those like myself doing the actual trek you will find yourself in love with this quirky little town. Ollantaytambo offers the perfect experience for wandering the narrow cobblestone streets, hopping over the babbling water irrigation channels, and is also home to some pretty impressive Inca ruins.

I will blog about what came next on the Inca Trail in a seperate post but after returning from the trek I spent another full day and night back in Cusco, managing to see more of what the city had to offer.

No trip to Cusco is complete without a trip to the Choco Museum and this place served up the most amazing french crepes covered in dark Peruvian chocolate. You can also take a chocolate making class if you have enough time. This place is perfect for a little indulgence while you take a seat on the balcony overlooking a small courtyard area.

The great thing about G Adventures is that they are so informed and helpful as to what other activities are available for you to do with your free time on the tour. So when they mentioned Horse Back Riding I jumped at the chance. It was a really nice way to spend an afternoon riding through the Saqsaywaman National Park and the horses were all really friendly.

My final dinner in Cusco was spent at Papachos who serve up THE most amazing burgers. They also give you wax crayons and a paper placemat to doodle on to your inner child's content.

As you can see my time in Cusco was pretty jam packed and varied and I would definitely return to Cusco in a heartbeat. The people are friendly, the food is incredible and the whole city just has a really relaxed feel to it.

Next stop was the Inca Trail - stay tuned, but for now here's a photo of some cute Alpacas. :)

 Thanks for reading x

Peru Part One - Lima

Now that I have unpacked my rucksack and caught up with family and friends the realisation that my Peru adventure has finally ended has begun to sink in.

So I thought I would blog about my trip for you all to read, and for me to relive the highlights over again.

First up - Lima

The vast majority of trips to Peru start in Lima with most people using the city as a gateway to travel to another part of the country. I was going to be spending just over a day and a half in Lima so aimed to do my best to see the highlights.

Unfortunately at this time of year Lima is shrouded in grey clouds known as Gurua and despite being warm the grey clouds do create a bit of a gloomy outlook on the city.

On my first day in Lima I gained a map of Miraflores from the Hotel Castellana reception and took the 15 minute walk down to Larcomar. Here you can gaze out into the ocean and spy on the crazy surfers attempting to ride the pacific ocean waves. Next to Larcomar is the Parque del amour and the first place on my speedy Lima to do list.

The Parque is lined with beautiful well kept flower gardens and an imposing statue in the middle of a lovers embrace. The charm of the parque however lies in the colourful mosaic sculptures and seats. There is even a tree for lovers to mark their initials on.

From here I took a 15 minute taxi ride to the Larco Museo. This place was highlighted in my Lonely Planet book as one of the top museums in Lima and it didn't disappoint. The 18th century mansion houses a large collection of ceramics, gold and jewels.

Many visitors are lured here by the vast collection of erotica in pottery form. It definitely made for an interesting hour.

Next stop was Parque Kennedy back in Miraflores. The park is set in the middle of a busy area of central Lima and a walk in the park will find you in the company of lots and lots of cats. Some sleeping, some chasing birds and some just going about their daily business. The parque also hosts crowds of local artists showcasing a variety of paintings, prints and textile souvenirs.

The final landmark in Lima was Parque Reserva in downtown Lima. Here you can take the Magical Water Tour which costs 4 soles to enter, but definitely worth a visit. The Magic Water Tour is currently the world record holder for the largest fountain complex in the word, consisting of 13 distinct fountains all of which are lit up at night with many operating a continuous colour changing formation.

Overall I cant say Lima was my favourite place in Peru (more of that to come) but I did feel that the time I did spend I got to see some of the cities charm and quirkiness.

Next stop Cusco..................

Stay tuned, thanks for reading x

2014 in search of my next wonder of the world

So as 2013 draws to a close I felt it was time to look ahead to 2014 and do what I am passionate about and that is travel.

A few years ago I started my bucket list and on there was to see the 7 wonders of the world.

In 2012 I visited India for the first time and the magnificent Taj Mahal was on the agenda. Now I am hell bent on ticking off the remaining 6 wonders.

Wonder No.1

Colourful elephants in Jaipur

Machu Pichu in Peru has always interested me especially after watching Karl Pilkington visit there in An Idiot Abroad. I have a few friends that have been and have said it really is a special place and next year I turn 30 eeeek and I really wanted to mark the occasion by doing something I can look back and go 'Wow I did that'.

I have travelled with G Adventures a few times now across SE Asia and India so they were the obvious choice for Peru. After spending hours doing research (geeky pleasure) I chose the Amazon to Andes  tour as it combined a mixture of the trek and jungle lodge mixed in with a few nights in Lima and Cuzco.

So that's it I booked it and I go on the 28th June. The next step is getting all the sensible clothes and shoes I will need for the trek. Which breaks my heart to spend money on sensible shoes rather than pretty ones. I am also travelling alone but the great thing about G Adventures is you get to meet lots of new and interesting people from all over the world - some single travellers and some with friends. But that's the beauty of it all, the fact you are thrown together with people from all over the world and in past experiences I haven't been with a bad crowd yet and the travel agent tells me I am booked on a tour with lots of Ozzies. Bonus!!

So here's a quick sneak peak of whats ahead of me.......