Peru Part Three - The Inca Trail

So here it is, the big one.

Machu Pichu has long been on my bucket list as I am sure it is for many others, but the idea of trekking the Inca Trail has always given me the fear. Could I do it? Would I be fit enough? Would I enjoy the hiking?

In the end I decided to just bite the bullet and hoped it would be the kind of amazing achievement I could look back one day and say 'Wow, I did that'. Fast forward a month and it is!!

As mentioned in a few earlier blog posts I settled on once again travelling with G Adventures and chose the Amazon to Andes tour as I felt it gave me an overall experience of Peru in a short space of time. The classic Inca Trail, is 27 miles of Inca-laid trails connecting haunting archaeological sites, breathtaking panoramic views, and heart-pounding mountain peaks. Access to this route is strictly controlled — only 500 permits per day are issued (including guides and porters) and only authorized companies can receive permits. I booked my trip quite far in advance last November to ensure I got my permit.

Setting off from Ollantaytambo on Wednesday 2nd July we arrived at the checkpoint early and here handed over our duffle bags to our purple vested porters and collected our walking poles. At the first checkpoint we were told to show our passport and inca permit and got our first Inca Trail passport stamp. I was actually really relishing the idea of having no phone signal, no wifi and just going really back to basics.

From here we crossed the bridge over the Urabamba River and set off for what would be a 6 hour - 11km trek with a steady incline towards the Wayllabamba campsite. The sun was shining, my group were all in good spirits and come lunchtime at our rest stop we were feeling good but hungry.

Upon arrival, there was a dining tent already set up, a cup of juice handed over and a bowl of water and soap to freshen up with. We were then served an amazing lunch of vegetable soup and trout with potatoes and veggies. The food was so tasty and filling and perfect fuel for the next few hours into base camp. We continued to hike as a group but over the next four days the 16 of us would separate into different groups based on our speeds.

Along the way we spotted a number of wildlife from friendly stray cats and dogs, to donkeys and hummingbirds.

As we arrived into Base Camp #1 we were applauded by the porters, and again given warm water to wash with. The views were great and there was also a nearby stream to go and wash in. Although the temperatures felt sub zero.

After arranging our tents, the group all sat around chatting and getting to know one and other before dinner. After filling our bellies, we opened up a pack of cards and passed the time by playing 'bullshit'. Nothing bonds people together like a good old card game.

Most people retreated back to their tents around 9pm ready for the early start the next day. I wrapped myself up in plenty of layers and pulled on my llama patterned bobble hat and fell straight to sleep.

On Day 2 we were woken up by the kind of sounds I can only describe as like something out of Jurrasic Park. It literally sounded like a T Rex was outside my tent, but no it was just a nearby Donkey making himself known.

Our adorable guide Chino popped his head in the tent and handed us a coca leaf tea and a bowl of warm water to wash with. Breakfast this morning was quinoa porridge and pancakes with a toffee animal motif drizzle (its the little touches that in my opinion make G Adventures so special).

This day was the one we all were dreading as we embarked on a 12km trek up to the infamous Dead Womans Pass. With an altitude of 4200m above sea level, the air up there can become really thin and the steps just seem to go on forever. Day 2 was incredibly hard but completely achievable if you take your time. There were times where I couldn't take more than 5 steps without stopping to catch my breath. But those resting moments did give me the chance to stop and look at the stunning scenery.

It takes roughly 6 hours to reach Dead Womans Pass and it was all uphill, however from there it takes another 2 hours to Base Camp #2 and those hours are all downhill, so be prepared for your knees to be knocking by the end!!

I have never experienced jelly legs like after reaching the end of Day 2, but that was all outweighed by the sheer relief we all felt when we arrived at Base Camp. I really felt that now I had beaten Day 2 I could take on whatever else the Inca Trail was going to throw at me.

Big recognition needs to go to my friend Sarah on Day 2 as despite being really sick, she battled on through the hardest day of the whole trek and made it to camp to a round of applause from us all. Big thanks also goes to my South African buddy Nilesh for carrying half a bottle of Johnny Walkers Scotch up the trail, as passing that baby around the dinner tent on Day 2 really took the edge off those aching muscles.

Base Camp #2 also offered my favourite campsite view and certainly took the edge off waking up at a ridiculous hour when you are greeted by a view like this.

On Day 3 the wake up call was 5am, and breakfast today was omelette and a big cup of hot chocolate. Todays trek was 16km and probably the prettiest days of all the trek with a mixture of dry hillside and lush jungle vegetation. Who knew moss could be so colourful?

Day 3 on the trek was a mixture of hiking up and down and our lunch stop was on top of mountain overlooking the back of Machu Pichu mountain. To all of our surprise our fantastic cooks managed to bake us a cake on top of our mountain. There is seriously nothing these guys can't do.

The journey down into WinayWayna camp was nothing but steep vertical steps but we did cross through the Intipata ruins which were some of my favourite, as the agricultural terraces are shaped around the curve of the valley.

Amazingly on the top of this mountainside there was the odd electricity pylon which meant that thanks to our guide Davids negotiation skills, we were able to cram into some random persons house  and watch the Brazil v Columbia game. Very Surreal.

Tonight we thanked and tipped our porters and had our final dinner on the Inca Trail before heading to our tents for a few hours sleep.

Day 4 (Machu Pichu Day) we were woken up at 3.15am and by 4am we were all trekking in the dark with our head torches on to arrive at the checkpoint. Waiting for the checkpoint to open we sat patiently playing cards under torch light below a sky full of stars. This trip has given me so many 'pinch me' moments and this was one of them as the sky was so beautiful.

From the checkpoint it takes roughly another hour to make it to Intipunku (Sun Gate) and the first real view of MP. 

We then stood and watched the sunrise come over the valley before powering down more steps to the stone platform that allows you to capture the picture postcard photo. Here I am, so happy to have made it.

By this point it was about 8am and we headed straight to the terrace bar at MP and cracked open the beers. Never has an ice cold beer tasted so good.

Onwards from here we were given a guided tour of Machu Pichu and learnt about the history and significance of the site. From religious temples to high priests quarters and agricultural pastures. It is no surprise why this place is a Wonder of the World as the place is incredible and I will treasure the day I spent there for the rest of my life.

Heading back to Aguas Calientes for lunch it was Pizzas, Pisco Sours and copious amounts of Sangria all around. We must have been the happiest bunch of people in the town and even had a little dance in the street.

The Inca Trail was my favourite part of Peru and one of the best travelling experiences of my life. I am so glad I didn't cheat and catch the train. Arriving at Machu Pichu through the Sun Gate after 4 days of trekking was the most rewarding feeling, and to get to do it with the best bunch of Ozzies, Brits, Norwegians and South Africans made it perfect. I would not change a single thing about any of it.

Thanks for reading and if this inspires anyone to visit Peru and hike to Machu Pichu either on the Inca Trail or one of the other many routes available, then enjoy and make the best memories. This place is a gem x